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Barbados, Something Different by Thomas R. Fletcher She isn’t your typical port-of-call. Easternmost of the Caribbean islands, Barbados is different: culturally and geologically different. Sure there are similarities to other Caribbean destinations–there’s plenty of sun, surf, and sand. Palm-fringed beaches are as common as expected, but there is a different mind set. The British influence is palpable, which should be expected given the history. Settled by the English in 1627, Barbados is unique in that she remained under
British control until gaining full independence in 1966 (many Caribbean islands
changed hands repeatedly over the centuries). This stability of rule has shaped
the culture of today, where there is a certain staid, proper feel to society (it
wouldn’t be proper to wear your bathing suit into town). This stability has
given Barbados a "safe" feel as a destination, preserved some
beautiful architecture, and produced a 98% literacy rate. The percentage of US
citizens visiting Barbados after 9/11 is actually up a few percentage points,
due primarily to the safe reputation. The reputation derives from several
factors. Language isn’t a barrier, English is the official language. There is
a civility, rooted in the rule of law, that is missing from some Caribbean
destinations. There are no worries about the food or the water–Barbados coral
limestone formation provides one of the best natural water filtration systems in
the world. Crime is well controlled. The food is wonderful (more on that later),
and money is easy to manage, $1 US is equal to $2 Barbados, though most places
readily accept US dollars. Getting around the 166-square mile island is a
breeze. Rental cars, taxis, bicycles, and the public buses offer visitors a wide
selection of transportation choices (ride a public bus from one end of the
island to the other for $1.50 Barbados). Barbados has the highest rate of return
visitors of any Caribbean island and that says plenty. This pear-shaped chunk of coral limestone, was violently thrust from the ocean floor through the forces of plate tectonics, by the colliding of the Atlantic and Caribbean plates. Since there are no sharp mountains as is common on volcanically-formed islands, Barbados’ wide flat areas were ideally suited for agriculture, making her the prize of England’s Caribbean colonies. Sugar, introduced in the 1630's, became the leading crop, making Barbados a leading producer by 1651. By 1676 Barbados had a larger population and was more prosperous than New England. The legacy of sugar remains, with many fields still given to production today.
Cobblers
Cove, a Relais & Chateaux member property, is a sanctuary of
quiet, relaxed elegance. Bordering one of the island’s best beaches, the
resort property features 40 suites. The small size means it never feels crowded.
From its serene oceanfront setting, to its lush gardens, to the exquisite
dining, Cobblers Cove is pure romantic elegance. The most boisterous
event may have been the family of Green monkeys having a mango breakfast in the
trees outside my suite on my first morning. There is a relaxed feel, as welcome
as the balmy breeze that blows through the open air seaside restaurant. Here
sumptuous dishes such as pan-fried barracuda with Bajan seasoning or
chorizo-crusted tuna loin are served. Cobblers Cove dining places an
emphasis on local supplies–the barracuda and flying fish on the evening menu
were delivered beach side by local fishermen a few hours before. Cobblers Cove offers the Modified American Plan, which includes
breakfast and either lunch or dinner daily. The resort has an exchange dining
program with three other island luxury resorts. Served up at 4:00 PM, the
English tea of Cobblers Cove includes scones, strawberry jam and
biscuits. (Observed island-wide, afternoon tea is another mark of the English
influence.) Complimentary gymnasium, tennis, sailing, windsurfing, snorkeling
and water-skiing are offered. Each of the 40 suites contain an air-conditioned
bedroom, bathroom, kitchenette and living area that opens to either the lush
gardens or ocean front view. The service of Cobblers Cove is nothing
short of impeccable. The vibrant cuisine scene of Barbados is exciting. The food alone is enough to justify a visit. Fresh seafood forms the backbone of most menus. Flying fish, a Bajan specialty, is sure to be on the menu and available for every meal, including breakfast. "Only Bajans know how to debone them," brags The Cove owner/cook Laurel-Ann Morley, as she serves up her delicious version of flying fish. Flying fish are terribly bony and Barbados is the first place I’ve found them as a regular menu item. "Bajan" cuisine borrows from many traditions including American, European, and Asian. From a simple island breakfast of Bajan flying fish and scrambled eggs to grilled jumbo shrimp at The Tides Restaurant, alfresco dining with the sea lapping below, it’s all good! If You Go:
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Listed
by the Barbados Tourism Authority as one of the "Seven Wonders of
Barbados," St
Nicholas Abbey is a good place to learn a bit of Barbados sugar history and see
some unique architecture. St Nicholas Abbey has no church connection. It has
always been a sugar plantation house. The exact origin of its name is not known.
Built in Jacobean-style architecture, the house is thought to be one of only
three remaining examples of this style in the Western Hemisphere. Sugar has been
grown on the plantation since 1640. The house was built sometime between 1650
and 1660. Processed on the property until 1947, the cane is now trucked eight
miles to the Portvale Sugar Factory for processing.
There
is diversity in the Barbados landscape. It isn’t only agricultural fields.
North Point, where the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea collide, with its
high cliffs and rough seas presents an ongoing drama as unrelenting seas dash
against the unmoving stone cliffs. The east coast town of Bathsheba is a natural
for surfers. The shoreline is dotted with striking offshore rock-islands that
look as if they could topple at any time, undercut by the ceaseless, unchecked
Atlantic. The view is stunning. The south coast is a bit tamer, but still has
some rollicking waves that are great for body surfing. The west coast, often
called the Gold Coast is the place for swimming, water skiing, sailing, and
beach activities. The sheltered Caribbean provides placid, sun-warmed waters
perfect for water play, as I found during my stay at Cobblers Cove.
(CAR-55-4, Bottom Bay, St Philip Parish,
Barbados)
(CAR-61-14 Bathsheba along the Atlantic Coast
of Barbados)
(CAR-59-6 Speightstown, Barbados) 
(CAR-61-9 St Joseph Parish Church) 
(CAR-61-16 Bathsheba along the Atlantic Coast
of Barbados)
(CAR-62-7 Bathsheba along Barbados' Atlantic
Coast) 
(CAR-56-7 Bathing beauty along the Gold Coast
of Barbados)
(CAR-54-12
East Point Lighthouse)