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El Yunque: Illusion of Mystery
A sense of mystery pervades the dark forest. The twilight effect, a result of
cloud cover and the forest canopy, adds to the mystery. The mist-shrouded
vegetation takes on an other-worldly appearance. I drift into a reverie,
mesmerized by the ever present sound of running water. Suddenly the reverie is
shattered by the blaring blast of a coqui, Puerto Rico's diminutive tree frog.
It produces a sound totally out of proportion to its size. I am walking in the
cloud forest of El Yunque, the rainforest of Puerto Rico. Many people are aware of the importance tropical rainforests hold for all life on earth. Most of the earth's oxygen is produced by tropical rainforests. Over one-half of all living species live in tropical rainforests. Few people are aware that we have a tropical rainforest under the management of the U. S. Forest Service. The formal name of that forest is: Caribbean National Forest, also known as El Yunque.
The forest area was first set aside as a reserve in 1876 by King Alfonso XII
of Spain. That makes it one of the oldest reserves in our hemisphere. Located
within the forest is the International Institute of Tropical Forestry. Knowledge
gained here is shared with other tropical nations on effective management of
rainforests. Also within the forest is the Bano de Oro Research area which
comprises 2,172 acres of virgin forest. The importance of this relatively small
section of rainforest is recognized in part by it being named a United Nations
Biosphere Reserve. The idea of a tangled, overgrown mass of vegetation is the idea that comes to
mind for many when the words "tropical rainforest" are heard. Such
scenes are only found at the edges of the forest, along stream banks, or where
breaks in the canopy have occurred. In the real rainforest, the area under the
canopy is quite open. The canopy is formed by the meshing of the tree tops,
essentially forming a roof. The canopy also protects the fragile soil from
erosion. It does so by breaking the path of falling rain. The rain strikes the
canopy then trickles down tree trunks to reach the soil.
The visitor center offers more information on rainforest The tops of the mountain peaks are covered with what is known as the cloud
forest. The trees grow short, few are over 20 feet tall. Many are twisted and
deformed from the wind. Couple that fact with the mist, literally one is walking
in a cloud, and it can seem pretty eerie from time to time. The mist hinders
visibility and adds a sense of isolation. The wind through the trees can make
some low moaning sounds, which doesn't help with the spooky sensation. It is in
this area of the forest that I have met the fewest hikers. The trails aren't
that long or difficult. It is a fact that many people never leave Route 191, the
road through the forest. On one hike, I headed for the cloud forest. I was off to a late start, so I was hurrying along. It was getting late in the evening. On this occasion I met another hiker scurrying down the trail.
"Yes," I answered, "I want to get some photos before dark." "That's when they come. They come when it gets dark, you know." "Who," I inquired. I had no idea what he was talking about. "The aliens, they land up there," he said, fear in his voice and a look of desperation on his face. I laughed. I thought he was joking. At my laughter, he quickly turned and continued his descent in a half-run. Later I found that in some circles, El Yunque does have the reputation of being a favored landing site of UFO's. I must admit, I thought there was something other-worldly about the cloud forest.
Most visitors to Puerto Rico arrive in San Juan, either via the airlines or a cruise ship. Most go on to stay in the Metro Area. El Yunque is about a 45 minute drive east of San Juan. Take PR 3 east to the small village of Palmer. Watch closely for the small green sign, it is easy to miss. Turn right on Route 191 and follow it up the hill. You will see the large Caribbean National Forest sign when you enter the forest property. (On your trip from San Juan, if you see beautiful Luquillo Beach on your left, you have gone too far. It's time to backtrack.)
Click here if you would like to use this feature or one of these photos Stock photography by Thomas R. Fletcher at Alamy
Stock photography by Thomas R. Fletcher at Alamy Text and Photos Copyright Thomas R. Fletcher
Click here if you would like to use this feature or one of these photos
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Caribbean National Forest is a 28,000 acre reserve about a 45 minute drive
from San Juan. Here one finds lush vegetation, clear running streams, secluded
waterfalls, and yes, the boisterous coqui. The coqui's maximum size is about two
inches in length. This native of Puerto Rico is the national symbol of the
Island. Judging from the shrill call of this small creature, one would expect
something much larger.![Coqui [Eleutherodactylus] in bromeliad 11-22-15](11-22-15-b.JPG)
In addition to the noisy little frog, a variety of flora and fauna thrive in
the forest. There are 225 species of trees native to the region, 23 of which
grow nowhere else. There are over 200 species of ferns, some of which grow to
heights of more than 40 feet. The 
Puerto Rican Parrot, an endangered species
makes its home in the forest. So does the Puerto Rican Boa constrictor, another
endangered species. If one is very observant, one may see the Puerto Rican Tody.
The tody is a small bird with a beautiful green color with a ruby colored patch
on its throat. It is only about the size of a person's thumb, so it is easy to
miss.
Tropical rainforests possess a unique beauty. Caribbean National Forest
presents the opportunity to observe a rainforest close-up, in a safe
environment. El Yunque is quite "tame" when compared to other
rainforests around the world. Neither crocodiles nor jaguars threaten visitors.
ecology. Here one
will find books and souvenirs to purchase. Videos about the rainforest may be
watched, or one may join in on one of the guided tours. The rangers are
bilingual, giving tour information in both Spanish and English. On the tours
they will give various details on El Yunque's flora and fauna.
As the distance between us closed, he said "You're not going up there
now are you?" Anxiety filled his voice.
If You Go:
666 Fifth Ave. at 52nd Street, 15th Floor
5-28-12 Caribbean butterfly on Impatiens, rainforest
![Coqui [Eleutherodactylus] in bromeliad 11-12-11](11-12-11-b.JPG)
